Thursday, April 30, 2015

Fine de la Guerra - Italy's end to WWII

The quiet towns on the shores of the northern end of Lake Como suddenly became centre stage as World War 2 came to its close in Europe.
Earlier, in 1943, the tide of war changed as the Allies landed in Sicily and pushed rapidly northwards, the Italian army unable to mount a strong defence. The Fascist Grand Council met and passed a resolution deposing Mussolini, known as Il Duce (The Leader), and replacing him as Head of the Armed Forces with the king, Victor Emanuel III. Just like that Mussolini was arrested and Italy swapped sides, joining the Allies. The government moved out of Rome, southwards, abandoning the north of Italy to the German occupiers.
A daring raid rescued Mussolini from his captors, who were holding him at the Campo Imperatore Hotel, high in the Gran Sasso mountains in Abruzzo. After a brief visit with Hitler in Germany Mussolini was returned to northern Italy as the puppet head of the newly invented fascist Italian Social Republic.
Less than 2 years later the last act was to play out. On 27th April 1945 Mussolini fled,along with his mistress, Claretta Petacci, her brother and a few close supporters. They were heading northwards to reach Switzerland and joined a German convoy. Militias made up of disbanded Italian troops and local partisans were more or less in control of the southern alpine foothills through which the convoy had to travel as it moved northwards along the western shore of Lake Como. Briefly halted at Menaggio the convoy was allowed to proceed with the proviso that no Italians were part of the group.
Approaching Dongo the convoy was halted by a roadblock of boulders avalanched down by Partisans as the road passes on the lakeshore below an overhanging cliff.
Showing the road rounding the cliff. In the foreground is the harbour of Dongo.

This is the old road where the ambush took place. A modern day supporter has grafitti-ed a memorial on the left.
This time the convoy was carefully searched and a worn-out Mussolini was identified. All were arrested and taken the few hundred metres to Dongo harbour. A following car was also stopped and found to be carrying Petucci and her brother. Mussolini was spirited away to Germasino, a nearby town high above the lake, for safety.
The following day he was joined by Claretta and the two of them driven southwards down the lake shore to Mezzagra where a decision was quickly taken. Il Duce and his mistress were summarily shot.

Fifteen of the accompanying convoy were executed too on the harbour front at Dongo. I haven’t looked but they say that the steel railings still show evidence of the bullets fired. The bodies of Mussolini and Petacci were taken to Milan where they were displayed to the populace, hanging by their feet from the rusty canopy of a petrol station in Piazza Loreto.

Sunday, April 26, 2015

Lago di Como

After a winter during which it seemed a chore to write up my blog I've begun my summer work with leading a new holiday for Explore. This shows where I am.
View north over Dongo to the Alps
From Menaggio with Wisteria in bloom
This is Lake Como in a town called Gravedona for three weeks before heading to Naples to do a week there. I've just completed the first week here with the first group ever to do this hiking holiday.
Pausing for a breather on the way up to Livo
 They were a great bunch of people who really took to the adventure of being the pioneer clients. We managed not to get lost and had a great time in perfect weather. The views are wonderful, the villages picturesque, the walks varied and the picnic lunches all consumed!
On the way to Sorico