Catch-up from Como

I'm back in the UK after a month away in Italy; it's all work, work, work for me. There's lots to report but as usual I haven't found time to write to my blog whilst away. Here are some catch-up entries, beginning with Lake Como.

My friends in early morning sunshine at Rezzonico on the western shore of Lake Como

 I spent a couple of weeks alongside Lake Como, the first with Jude doing the last preparation for the second week, with my lovely "Pacemakers" walking group. This was the tenth annual walking trip we've done and it's definitely become a habit. Although I've been leading trips for Explore by Lake Como for a couple of years I wanted something different so I spent the first week exploring some new walks. The first of my two favourites was a section of the Sentiero delle Viandante on the eastern shore of the lake.
From Gravedona Jude and I took a lake ferry across to Piona and disembarked alone. We found our path nestling uncomfortably alongside a fence at first but it soon improved, taking some zig-zags as it climbed up the the whaleback crest of the peninsula on our way to Olgiasca.

On the whaleback ridge before Olgiasca

 This was a lovely section of path through natural woodland above cliffs where we found climbers. It seems little walked.
From Olgiasca we had a few hundred metres along the road to Dorio. There's a path I found later in my visit that goes directly up from Dorio to the chapel of San Giorgio in Mandonico where we joined the Sentiero delle Viandante.

Jude re-lacing near Madonico

This path winds delightfully through the old hamlet of Mandonico and then climbs relentlessly up to a second chapel; Chiesetta di San Rocco. As it goes this path allows some terrific views southwards along the lake from above rocky bluffs.

Relentlessly up, but what a view above Dorio

Up again from San Rocco to round the ridge, traversing now all around the 500 - 600m contour, views north over Colico and into Val Chiavenna.

Northwards from the walk's highpoint towards the high mountains above Val Chiavenna

Shady walking towards Sparesee with beautiful views

Eventually, after the village of Sparesee the path starts to descend eastwards and onto a tarmac lane which zig-zags down to Posallo. A track now heads north from here before rejoining the tarmac on the outskirts of Colico. If you make it to the jetty in time the ferry will return you to Gravedona, otherwise it's a bus around the north of the lake.

Climbing on Grit

A joy of living where I do is Gritstone, or simply Grit. Grit is fantastic rock for us climbers. Its coarse surface gives wonderful friction and its lack of handholds and footholds demands imagination and good technique to envisage a way up, balance and momentum are key.

And the quintessential gritstone crag is Stanage Edge, close to Sheffield on the eastern border of the Peak District. For those lucky enough to live close by, climbing on summer evenings facing the setting sun is one of life's greatest pleasures.
Stanage Edge is home to more than 1500 different climbs along it's 4 miles length. None of them are high as the crag rarely gets above 20 metres. They're packed in a few metres apart wherever a visionary climber has spotted an unclimbed line. These days there are few lines left unclimbed with the potential for new routes and most those are at the hardest end of the range of climbing difficulty.
I've always wanted to put my name to a new climbing route, to be the first to spot and climb a line and to name it. A few weeks ago I noticed a few metres of what looked like lovely climbing up the top few metres of of a buttress next to where I was belaying for Jill. The rock below this was 'occupied' by another harder route but it looked possible to reach the nice finish via a traversing line below an overhang. Like the finish this traverse wasn't mentioned in the climbing guidebook. So that was around 10 metres of potential unclimbed route. I could reach the start of this climbing using the start of an existing route.
This all looked worthwhile. Instead of climbing existing guidebook routes next time we went out it was pioneering. My friends all stood back to leave me the opportunity to be the first. I took a while over the existing start and then spent a while longer fixing protection for myself in case of a fall. Stepping out onto the unclimbed line felt exciting and steepish; my weight was on my arms and again I took too long fixing more protection. I got into a steep groove where a high step took me up below the finishing section but my arm muscles had turned to jelly and I fell off, caught by my rope and belayer.
A week later I was back and this time, with foreknowledge, the route felt like a breeze. In a short 15 minutes I was at the top. My first ascent was followed by my friends. It's difficult to be objective but it feels as though it's a good addition to Stanage's climbs. It only remains for me to get it added to the next published guidebook.
And I get to name it. It was climbed on an evening when we were socialising in the name of Fidel Sciamanna. It's called "Fidel's Curry Night".

Blackden Brook

One of the consequences of working away from the UK for weeks at a time is that I end up appreciating home so much more. If I ever took it for granted I don't any more. After getting back from Italy I was determined to get out onto the Dark Peak moors to walk and climb.
One of the first opportunities came with the visit to Derbyshire of my friends Simon and Jan - we always try to get out for a day when they're up from Ipswich. This time I was going to take them to the Upper Derwent moors, using the weekend bus service that shuttles up alongside the Derwent and Howden Reservoirs on summer weekends. However, it turns out there's an interval of a few weeks in May during which the roa is closed to private cars but there's not yet a bus provided. So we thought again.
It was many years since I'd walked up onto the north side of Kinder taking Blackden Brook from the Snake Road. That's decided then.

Simon at the start

Blackden Brook is a deep V that heads up south away from the road. It's quite a long valley curving gently away until it rises steeply from under the rim of Kinder's northern rim. The small path seems to have little footfall and is hardly eroded. Once alongside the brook itself the path is narrow, sometimes jumping the brook, sometimes on flat sediments and often on the steep valley sides a few metres above the stream.

The valley narrows

It's not a path to fall off and there are places where the walking involves the use of the hands. We wandered along in the May sunshine and saw no-one, just a succession of pretty pools and tumbling waterfalls, hemmed in by the valley.

The climb up to the Plateau

Towards the end you start to climb and the valley floor steepens and becomes bouldery. The path hardly matters here as you scramble over and between lumps of brown gritstone gaining height rapidly now to reach the Kinder Rim path.

Looking north from the Rim

Immediately on gaining this point we saw other groups of walkers for the first time. The rest of the walk was on more familiar ground for me; along the rim westwards to Fairbrook then north to Fairbrook Naze, the steep ridge running down towards the Snake Inn on the A57. The plateau has changed over the last few years as the project to reduce the erosion starts to change the environment. Largely gone are the plain chocolate peat banks flanking the streams which created tufted islands of heather and bilberry hags. Onto the peat now grows grass, turning the landscape green and pale Naples yellow, a prairie landscape that seems to shimmer in the breeze.

A grassy landscape on the plateau

And so down the naze and back to the road in an hour. I love this landscape of moor and rock. It feels like home.

At the top of Fairbrook Naze

Convento di Cospiti

The Convento di Cospiti, a medieval monastery sits on a cusp of rock ('Cospiti' comes from the Italian for cusp) 600m above sea level and the town of Vettica, near Amalfi. A steep footpath winds up by massive limestone cliffs from there, but a less exhausting way first climbs, then traverses in from San Lazzaro, finally dropping steeply to the ruins.
It's a remarkable place for a monastery, perched between bands of vertical and overhanging cliffs, above and below. The monks seem to have sought maximum solitude.


The shortest path from San Lazzaro is also the most exciting way in. From the top of the cliff, at an electricity pylon (I swear someone must be offering the utility companies a bonus for spoiling the most photogenic tourist viewpoints) the path turns steeply leftwards, down a ramp splitting the cliff diagonally.

The path turns downwards. The monastery is out of sight below, on the steep slopes on the right of the picture.

Our path winds between a looming cliff and a vertiginous drop into a gully, below a pinnacle poised above the path. Once in the gully the path turns down it. Cables fastened to the rock provide a handrail as you creep downwards with a mere suggestion of steps, concreted or carved into the rock.

The exciting bit of the path with its shiny, new chain

Lastly, a more recent, shiny chain protects the final turn out of the gully onto the slightly less vertigo inducing slopes below which sit the monastery ruins.

The ruins with Amalfi and the Capo d'Orsa below

First mention of a religious building on this site comes from the 11th century and it was used continuously until it's gradual decline towards the end of the 18th century. In the 14th century it was a pilgrimage destination and from then until 17th century was it's heyday. early in the 17th century. Terracing indicates the growing of food and these precipitous gardens are also to be found in the large cliff encircled bay to the south west where a further ruined chapel sits on a bluff of rock. I guess that this must have been associated with the monastery.

There's a barrel-vaulted building under a ledge on which a wooden cross has been mounted and above that an old wall built at the edge of a cave which was a hermitage. A story mentions this as a retreat for the prospective Pope Sixtus IV for a couple of years in the fifteenth century.

Cliffs with the wooden cross and the Sixtus hermitage

Today it's a quiet spot. Last week I visited for the first time amidst spring flowers including an early blooming Italian orchid. It's also known as the Naked Man orchid called because each of it's petals is shaped like a human figure with arms and legs, joined to the central stem at the head. Between it's 'legs' is the telltale spike which gives away the gender.

Naked Man Orchid (the man's in the lowest petals)

Dung beetles in their labour of Sysiphus

The place is alive with lizards and above soared a Kestrel and then a Peregrine Falcon, which folded its wings and dived towards the cliff to a perch and, presumably its nest. Leaving I walked eastwards and climbed gently around the rocky bluffs to escape the encircling cliffs without any further scrambling.  This longer path is an alternative way in for those who prefer to be able to keep their hands in their pockets whilst walking.

Wood Anemones and Cyclamen on the path back to San Lazzaro

Luna d'Agerola and San Lazzaro

Time for a quick word about where I'm staying.
Agerola is a group of villages/towns around a valley 600m above the Amalfi coast, overlooking Conca dei Marini and the Gulf of Salerno. They are largely unspoiled by the synthetic tourist culture, invented by the more famous shoreline towns like Amalfi and Positano. They're further, vertically from the beach and the cruise ships.
Whilst leading hiking groups I've been staying at the agriturismo of Luna d'Agerola, hosted by the Acampora family, for 5 years - they're my Italian family.
The siblings, Ferdinando, Giovanna and Valentino do the daily running of the agriturismo whilst the oldest brother Pasquale is partially detached from the day to day running and  works a lot on his farm but he's strongly committed to wine making and maintaining the local food traditions, producing from salami to limoncello.

 

 

Valentino in the kitchen in Luna d'Agerola apron

The town of San Lazzaro is quite small and its piazza at the terminus of the bus route for Amalfi. You don't 'pass through' San Lazzaro because it's at the end of the road, perched atop huge limestone cliffs. I recommend a coffee or an ice cream in I Vizi del Generale, right on the piazza. (Thank you to Anna and Edwina for correcting my mis-translation that this was the 'face' of the General - it is the 'Vices'.) There's a new bar this year but I know where my loyalties lie. There's a story about the General in question but no time for that now.

I Vizi del Generale

I also love Da Gigino, the trattoria/pizzeria sitting unassuming along from the piazza. This serves the most excellent pizzas and other local food in a slightly eccentric style. Family run, Gigino and his wife are usually busy at the pizza oven whilst Massimo looks after  the customers.
San Lazzaro is a place which has seen a gentle increase in the number of visitors over the last few years. This may be set to continue as they redevelop the old Colonia Montana that sits at the highest point of the village into a 'University' to teach the regional traditions of food and culture. The renovation has been going on for months and will change the place - that's for sure.

View of terraces  from the Colonia Montana

Paestum

A couple of years ago I first heard of Paestum when two American clients, Ward and Warren, wanted to visit during their Amalfi Coast tour. Using local timetables I found that it was possible to make the 160 kilometre round trip and return by supper time.
Up 'til now I'd not done it myself but was impressed by what I read of Paestum's ruins and history I was keen to visit.Yesterday I set off on the journey south around the Gulf of Salerno. A bus from San Lazzaro to Amalfi then a change to a second bus from Amalfi, around the Capo d'Orso, to Salerno. From there I switched to a train and travelled on down the coast to Paestum.
Walking from the train station it's a kilometre down a local road, amongst other prospective tourists. I emerged from this road to see the ancient town of Paestum spread across the wide flat expanse of grass.

The temples of Hera and Apollo

A ticket costs 7 euros and grants access to the site and to the museum, where 5 euros buys a small book - all you need to know whilst on site. This was turning out to be a good day to visit; clear sunny skies but not too hot, fewer visitors than I would have expected and the southern Italian spring bursting around me. Wild flowers covered the meadows between the ruins which cover several square kilometres. As with Pompeii I had to remind myself of the scale, sophistication and complexity on the ancient classical world.

The temple of Athena

When the Greeks arrived here more than 2600 years ago the area's local inhabitants were the Enotri at the end of the Iron Age. It seems uncertain whether they were indigenous people or earlier migrants from what is now Greece. The new arrivals were here to stay and built a town Poseidonia after their Sea God, which only later was 'latinised' (can that really be a verb?) to Paistom.
There had been earlier settlements on that site but the greco-roman period for the next 1000 years is the one which is best represented on the site.  Most notable to an uneducated visitor like myself are the three huge temples, dedicated variously to Athena, Zeus and Hera (though it seems even these dedications are probabilities).
The site includes the forum, amphitheatre and large swimming pool, used in ritual. There are also extensive residential areas.

Swimming pool with a ramp at the far end to enter the water and a stone structure to support a wooden platform

 As with Pompeii, walking the paved wheel rutted streets brought home to me not only the age of the earliest remains but also the 1000 year duration - I wonder how many of our current buildings will be standing in the year 3000. Paestum was abandoned towards the end of the first millennium, it is thought, because of the arrival of malaria in the swamp-like terrain around.

A street between the forum and the residential district

I was interested to see how some buildings from early Poseidonia were overbuild in later developments by the Roman culture that superseded the Greek.
And, don't miss the museum, full of artefacts from the site, pottery and stone carvings and early fresco type paintings from the plasterwork. Most famous is the painting of a diver from a tomb which was excavated nearby.

(And I made it back in time for a pizza at da Gigino's in San Lazzaro.)

Agerola Again

April and I'm back on the Amalfi coast leading another walking holiday for Explore. It's my fifth year of doing this tour and it remains one of my favourites. Springtime is a good time to be here. Everything's blooming and lush by comparison with the summer.

Oranges

Wysteria pergola: house entrance on Capri

The climate in April is also more conducive to walking - it's possible to walk without sweltering and shrinking from the sun. These photographs were taken on a day trip to the island of Capri, away from the madding crowds of Capri town itself.

Looking from Villa Jovis back to the Sorrento peninsula and Vesuvius on the left.