Monday, July 4, 2011

Catching up with last week's climbing

Played truant last Thursday heading off to North Wales with Tim for the day, starting early at 6:00am from Sheffield. We were hoping to go up to Dinas Mot in the Llanberis pass to climb 'Nexus' there but arrived to threatening weather. A breakfast conference at Pete's Eats seemed the best idea. An hour later, loaded down with a good breakfast we headed off to Gogarth, on Anglesey for some proper sea cliff climbing.
I always forget how intimidating it is taking the amusingly named 'easy way down' to the main cliff. We were heading to 'Cordon Bleu' which climbs across the southern part of the crag.
Although it starts easily enough (as vertical grass climbing goes) it does begin downwards, without much protection and a bit of loose rock here and there, so I found the first pitch quite tense. The climbing after that is wonderful, poised on positive holds high above the blue sea.
Tim got to lead the hard pitch (which wasn't as hard as it's grade suggested) before I wandered off onto a Maltese variation on the next pitch, having lost my way in a wide groove. Here's Tim weeding his way across ledges on the first pitch. (Click https://picasaweb.google.com/joemallia6/CordonBleuHVS5b for more pictures)

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