Thursday, February 16, 2017

Winter trip to Glencoe

I was invited to join Toby, Mark, Angus, Tim and Neil on their Scottish winter adventure last weekend. They'd booked a great cottage on the shore of Loch Linnhe below the foot of Glencoe, one of my favourite places. I've not had a trip to Scotland for a few years.
We met on Thursday evening and looked forward to three full days out on the mountains.
The idea was to get some winter walking/scrambling/climbing and, as usual, this depended on the weather gods permitting - we arrived to a good forecast.

The Aonoach Eagach Ridge across Glencoe
It was decided that we'd head out together with the intention of climbing some of the easy classic climbs beginning with Dorsal Arete on Stob Coire Nan Lochan.
Friday began with cloud on the tops but fairly calm and dry, and we began by taking the relentless treadmill of 2 hours up to the cliffs of our mountain. We set the pattern for the next few days, climbing in two groups of three. We hardly belayed en-route but placed running belays as we went; the last climber removing the gear placed by the leader.
Two climbers ahead, on the narrow fin of Dorsal Arete
Dorsal Arete begins as a broad buttress of snow covered rock which narrows to a fine fin as it reaches towards the top. Everyone, even the less experienced climbers moved well and we soon got into a rhythm. The snow was thin over the rock but it was most enjoyable climbing. Topping out on the summit ridge we turned right to regain the corrie bowl and headed back down the steep valley to the glen.
Saturday we got going early to ensure we got back to the cottage in time for Six Nations rugby. The plan was to walk up Glen Eilde at the top of Glencoe to reach a fine steep ridge called Sron na Lairig. Saturday was sunny and our route was beckoning us on as we followed the icy path up the valley.
Walking a short section of Sron na Lairig, heading for the next steep bit.
 The final approach took steep snow to reach the rock at the toe of the buttress. We then headed directly up the starting rocks.
A succession of small false summits on Sron na Lairig
 Once again the buttress narrows and becomes a narrow crest in its upper reaches. It's quite exposed and lots of fun shuffling carefully along with steep, deep drops on both sides.
Looking down on the narrowest part of the ridge
Topping out we emerged onto a broad ridge, blasted by a vicious wind carrying sharp, cutting spindrift. We didn't linger, heading down the ridge in the sunshine, enjoying magnificent views across the mountains despite the hostile wind.
Sunday; day 3, Aonach Mor. Mark suggested heading north to take Aonoch Mor's ski gondola and walk to the mountain's west face. The route he had in mind was Golden Oldy, a route none of us had climbed before.
Toby swinging the axe as he climbs out of the crux chimney of Golden Oldy
 The route is graded 2 but at 450m rather longer than the first two climbs. The sunny theme continued as we made our way up the Allt Daim and the usual steep final approach to our climb. As usual the broad start offered a wealth of alternative lines but the ridge narrowed as we gained height.
Angus stepping carefully on the crest of Golden Oldy
 A steep chimney gave us a bit of ice before the ridge became a knife edge or snowed up rock. By this time we had become an effective climbing party and moved fast but we were undoubtedly tired by the time we reached the summit of our mountain.
Nearly at the top.
Mark and cake at the Gondola cafe
It's an easy walk off, however; cross the plateau northwards and drop into the top of the skiing area and follow the tows back down to the gondola and the delights of cake and coffee in the cafe.
When the weather's good like this it's hard to think of a better place than the Scottish Highlands for a short winter break.

2 comments:

  1. Great summary of a fantastic weekend. A big thank you to Joe and Mark for leading the routes. I really don't inderstand all these comments about Scottish weather! (Apparently my virgin trip to the Highlands was a tad unusual. Tim

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